Field Service Manual
Your Complete Field Reference
Step-by-step procedures, troubleshooting guides, wire sizing charts, code references, and company standards — everything you need on every job.
🔌
Core Procedures
Step-by-step for outlets, GFCI, panel work, new circuits, fixtures, and service upgrades.
6 procedures →
⚠️
Troubleshooting
Breakers tripping, dead outlets, flickering lights, burning smells. Know the causes fast.
4 guides →
📏
Quick Reference
Wire sizing, color codes, torque specs, key NEC articles. Fast lookup on the job.
4 references →
⭐
Company Standards
How we do things at this company. Non-negotiable standards on every job we touch.
Our way →
✅
Job Checklist
Run through this before you leave any job. Never skip a step.
Pre-departure check →
🦺
Safety First
Lockout/tagout, PPE, working hot, arc flash. Non-negotiable on every job.
Always read this →
Core Procedure
Outlets & Switches
Standard replacement and new installation. Follow these steps on every job — no shortcuts.
⚠️
Always verify dead before touching
Use a non-contact voltage tester on every wire before handling. Test twice — once before opening the box, once on each wire. A tester is not a substitute for turning off the breaker.
Replacing an Outlet
1
Turn off the breaker
At the panel, flip the breaker for the circuit. Test with your non-contact tester at the outlet — verify DEAD. Tape the breaker off if someone else is in the house.
2
Remove cover plate and outlet
Unscrew the cover plate (1 screw center). Unscrew the two mounting screws holding the outlet to the box. Pull the outlet out carefully — wires are still attached.
3
Note the wire connections BEFORE disconnecting
Take a photo with your phone. Black to brass (hot), white to silver (neutral), bare copper or green to green screw (ground). If wires are backstabbed, move them to the screw terminals on the new outlet — backstabs are not allowed per company standard.
4
Connect the new outlet — screw terminals only
Strip 3/4" of insulation. Hook and tighten to screw terminals. Black to brass, white to silver, ground to green. Torque to 12 in-lb on 15A outlets, 14 in-lb on 20A. Pull test each wire — it should not come out.
15A outlet = 12 in-lb
20A outlet = 14 in-lb
NEVER backstab — screw terminals only
5
Fold wires and mount outlet
Fold wires accordion-style into the box. Mount outlet straight — use level on longer runs. Tighten mounting screws snug but not cracking the ears.
6
Install cover plate and test
Install cover plate, restore breaker, test with outlet tester. Green light = wired correctly. Any other pattern = problem. Do not leave until it reads correctly.
Replacing a Switch
1
Identify switch type before opening
Single-pole = 2 wires + ground. 3-way = 3 wires + ground (has COMMON terminal). 4-way = 4 wires + ground (middle switch in a 3+ switch run). Check before buying the replacement.
2
Turn off breaker and verify dead
Switches are always hot — even with the switch off, the LINE terminal has voltage. Never skip this step.
3
Mark the COMMON wire on a 3-way switch
On 3-way switches, the COMMON terminal is marked. It's usually a different color screw (black or darker). Put tape on that wire before disconnecting — it MUST go back to the COMMON terminal on the new switch.
4
Connect and test
Match terminal to terminal. Both switch positions should control the light on a 3-way. If only one position works, you have the travelers swapped — swap them and retest.
💡
Company standard — always upsize to 20A outlets in kitchens
Even if the circuit is 15A, install 20A TR outlets in kitchen and bath counter locations. It's the same cost, looks better, and future-proofs for a 20A circuit upgrade. Always recommend upgrading those circuits to 20A while you're there.
Core Procedure
GFCI Installation
GFCI protects against shock near water. Learn where it's required and exactly how to wire it.
ℹ️
What GFCI actually does
A GFCI monitors the electricity going out versus coming back. If even a tiny bit (5 milliamps) goes somewhere it shouldn't — like through a person — it shuts off in 1/40th of a second. That's fast enough to prevent electrocution near water.
Where GFCI Is Required
✓
All bathroom outlets — every single one
NEC 210.8(A)(1)
✓
All garage outlets — attached and detached
NEC 210.8(A)(2)
✓
All outdoor outlets — anywhere outside
NEC 210.8(A)(3)
✓
Crawl space outlets
NEC 210.8(A)(4)
✓
Unfinished basement outlets
NEC 210.8(A)(5)
✓
Kitchen outlets within 6 feet of a sink
NEC 210.8(A)(6)
✓
Laundry and utility sink areas
NEC 210.8(A)(10)
✓
Boat dock, pool, and hot tub areas
NEC 210.8(A)(8) + NEC 680
Wiring a GFCI Outlet — Step by Step
⚠️
LINE vs LOAD — this is the most common wiring mistake
A GFCI outlet has two sets of terminals: LINE and LOAD. LINE is where power comes IN from the panel. LOAD is where power goes OUT to protect other outlets downstream. If you wire them backwards, the GFCI won't protect anything and may not even work.
1
Turn off breaker — verify dead
Test with voltage tester. Verify DEAD on all wires before touching anything.
2
Identify LINE vs LOAD wires
If this is the ONLY GFCI outlet on the circuit: only use LINE terminals, cap the LOAD terminals with the included caps. If other outlets are downstream and you want them GFCI-protected too: use LOAD terminals for those wires.
LINE = power from panel (always connect these)
LOAD = power to next outlet downstream (optional — protects more outlets)
If no downstream outlets: leave LOAD capped
3
Connect LINE terminals first
Black wire to LINE HOT (brass-colored). White wire to LINE NEUTRAL (silver-colored). Bare copper or green to the ground screw. Tighten to 12 in-lb minimum.
4
Connect LOAD terminals (if protecting downstream outlets)
The wires going TO the next outlet go on LOAD. Black to LOAD HOT, white to LOAD NEUTRAL. Leave caps on if not using.
5
Test before closing up
Restore power. Press RESET button — should click in. Plug in your outlet tester. Should show correct wiring. Press TEST button — tester light goes out (GFCI tripped). Press RESET — light comes back. If test doesn't trip it: LINE and LOAD are reversed — fix it.
GFCI Breaker vs GFCI Outlet — When to Use Which
| Method | When to use | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| GFCI Outlet | Single location or start of a run | Cheaper per location, easy to replace | Must be accessible to reset |
| GFCI Breaker | Whole circuit protection, ungrounded systems, garage | Protects entire circuit, panel-level reset | More expensive (~$35-45) |
| GFCI Breaker (Potts Method) | Aluminum wiring / ungrounded systems | Protects all outlets without rewiring, code compliant | Higher cost — sell the value |
Troubleshooting
Breakers Keep Tripping
Don't just reset it. Figure out WHY it's tripping. Here's how to diagnose fast.
🔥
A breaker that keeps tripping is telling you something
Never tell a customer to just "reset it and see." A breaker trips because something is wrong — overload, short circuit, or ground fault. Find the cause first. A breaker that can't be reset and stays tripped indicates a dead short — do NOT force it.
Types of Trips — Identify Before Diagnosing
| Trip Type | How to Tell | Cause |
|---|---|---|
| Overload | Trips after circuit is on for a while (gets hot) | Too much load on circuit — adds up over time |
| Short Circuit | Trips immediately when reset, loud pop | Hot wire touching neutral or ground — dead short |
| Ground Fault | GFCI trips, or breaker trips near water | Current leaking to ground — moisture, damaged device |
| Arc Fault | AFCI breaker trips randomly | Arcing in wire, connection, or device |
| Bad Breaker | Trips for no apparent reason, nuisance trips | Breaker itself is worn out or defective |
Step-by-Step Diagnosis
1
Unplug everything on that circuit first
Before resetting, unplug every device on that circuit. Reset the breaker. If it stays on: overload — something was drawing too much. Add up the load. If it immediately trips again with nothing plugged in: you have a short or ground fault in the wiring itself.
2
Check each device one by one
Plug in one device at a time. If the breaker trips when you plug in a specific device: that device is the problem — shorted internally. Replace it. If it trips when you plug in a lamp at a specific outlet: check that outlet for a loose connection or short.
3
Check the load calculation
15A circuit = 1,440W max (80% of 1,800W). 20A circuit = 1,920W max. Add up every device on the circuit. If over capacity: circuit is overloaded. Solution is a dedicated circuit or load redistribution — not a bigger breaker.
15A circuit → max 1,440 watts (80%)
20A circuit → max 1,920 watts (80%)
NEVER replace a 15A breaker with 20A to "fix" tripping
4
Inspect outlets and boxes for loose connections
Loose connections arc and cause heat — this will trip AFCI breakers and eventually cause fires. Check every outlet box on the circuit. Loose wire on a terminal = retighten to torque spec. Melted or burned insulation = replace the device and section of wire.
5
Check the breaker itself
A breaker that won't reset, feels loose in the panel, or is hot to the touch needs to be replaced. Check that it's fully seated in the panel bus bar. Test with a clamp meter — if current draw is normal but it still trips, replace the breaker.
Troubleshooting
Dead Outlets / No Power
Work through this list in order. Most dead outlets are solved in the first 3 steps.
1
Check for a tripped GFCI outlet nearby
This solves 40% of "dead outlet" calls. A GFCI outlet in another room (often a bathroom, garage, or kitchen) may have tripped and cut power to outlets downstream. Check every GFCI outlet in the house — look for one with a popped TEST button. Press RESET.
2
Check the panel for a tripped breaker
Look for a breaker in the middle position (not fully on, not fully off). Flip it fully OFF, then fully ON. Some breakers don't visually show they've tripped — use a tester at the panel if needed.
3
Check for a tripped GFCI breaker
GFCI breakers have a TEST button on the front. If it's tripped, it will either have a visual indicator or feel "mushy" when you try to turn it on. Reset same as a regular breaker — full OFF then full ON.
4
Open the dead outlet — check for loose connections
With breaker OFF and verified dead: remove the outlet. Check all connections. Backstabbed wires pull out over time — a wire that fell off the backstab = dead outlet. Reconnect to screw terminal and tighten properly.
5
Check for broken wire in the box
Sometimes wires break inside the insulation near the connection point. Tug each wire gently. If a wire comes away with no resistance, it's broken — you'll need to strip back and reconnect, or pull new wire if the break is in the wall.
6
Trace the circuit with a tone generator
If all else fails, use a tone generator and probe to trace where the circuit dies. The circuit is live up to a certain point — find the last working outlet before the dead ones. The problem is between those two points.
Quick Reference
Wire Sizing Chart
Match wire gauge to breaker size. Never use undersized wire — it's a fire hazard. When in doubt, go bigger.
#14
15A
Lighting circuits, general receptacles, bedroom outlets
#12
20A
Kitchen counter circuits, bath circuits, laundry, garage
#10
30A
Dryer circuit, A/C disconnect, water heater
#8
40A
Electric range, large A/C units
#6
55A
Large range, EV charger (50A), subpanel feeds
#4
70A
Subpanel feed (60-70A), large AC equipment
#2
95A
100A subpanel feed, large loads
#1/0
150A
150A service entrance, large subpanel
⚠️
These are copper wire ratings at 60°C or 75°C
Aluminum wire uses different ratings — aluminum is 2 sizes larger for equivalent ampacity. #12 aluminum = #14 copper equivalent. Never mix aluminum and copper directly — use AlumiConn connectors.
Breaker to Wire Match — Quick Check
| Breaker | Min Wire | Typical Use | NEC Reference |
|---|---|---|---|
| 15A | #14 AWG | Lighting, general outlets | NEC 240.4(D) |
| 20A | #12 AWG | Kitchen, bath, garage, laundry | NEC 240.4(D) |
| 30A | #10 AWG | Dryer, A/C, water heater | NEC 240.4(D) |
| 40A | #8 AWG | Electric range, large A/C | NEC 240.4(D) |
| 50A | #6 AWG | Range (50A), EV charger, spa | NEC 240.4(D) |
| 60A | #6 AWG | Subpanel feed, large HVAC | NEC 240.21 |
| 100A | #4 AWG copper or #2 AWG alum | 100A subpanel | NEC 240.21 |
Quick Reference
Wire Color Codes
Know what each color means before you touch it. This is not optional.
| Color | Meaning | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| ● Black | Hot — 120V (Line 1) | Always hot. Never use as neutral. |
| ● Red | Hot — 120V (Line 2) | 240V circuits, 3-wire NM, travelers on 3-way switches |
| ● White | Neutral (grounded conductor) | Re-identify white with black tape if used as a hot (switch loops, 240V) |
| ● Green | Equipment ground | Ground only — never carry current normally |
| ● Bare copper | Equipment ground | Same as green — ground only in NM cable |
| ● Yellow | Hot — 277V (commercial) | Rarely residential — 3-phase commercial systems |
| ● Blue | Hot — 120V (3-phase) | Conduit systems, 3-phase — rare residential |
| ● Orange | Hot — 240V (3-phase) | Commercial — identify with meter before touching |
⚠️
White wire used as hot — re-identify it
In switch loops and 240V circuits, a white wire is often used as a hot conductor. NEC requires you to re-identify it with black tape, black paint, or a black marker at both ends. If you see a white wire on the LINE terminal of a switch or connected to a hot, check if it's been re-identified. If not, do it.
Quick Reference
Torque Specifications
NEC 110.14(D) requires torque per manufacturer specs. These are standard values — always check the device label for exact spec.
| Device / Connection | Torque | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 15A outlet screw terminals | 12 in-lb | Most residential devices |
| 20A outlet screw terminals | 14 in-lb | Kitchen, bath, garage circuits |
| 15A / 20A switch | 12 in-lb | Same as outlet |
| 15A breaker (small wire) | 20 in-lb | Panel breaker lug — check breaker label |
| 20A–60A breaker | 25–35 in-lb | Varies by manufacturer — check label |
| 100A–200A breaker/lug | 250 in-lb (20 ft-lb) | Service entrance and main lugs |
| Neutral bar / ground bar | 20–35 in-lb | Check panel label — usually marked |
| AlumiConn connectors | 15 in-lb | King Innovation spec — critical for aluminum connections |
🔧
Get a torque screwdriver
Klein and Ideal make affordable torque screwdrivers under $50. NEC 110.14(D) now requires torquing to spec. It protects you legally and prevents loose connections that cause fires. This is non-negotiable on inspected work.
Company Standards
How We Do Things
These are non-negotiable. Every tech, every job, every time. No exceptions.
On Every Panel We Touch
✓
Siemens FS140 Whole-Home Surge Protector installed
Standard on every panel — always present at time of sale
✓
1900 box + GFCI TR outlet + raised cover + 1/2" offset nipple at panel
The Potts standard — customer always gets an accessible outlet next to their panel
✓
All empty panel slots covered with blank fillers
NEC 408.7 — required. Also prevents kids from poking things in.
✓
Panel directory filled in completely and legibly
NEC 408.4 — every circuit labeled. Use a label maker, not handwriting.
✓
All wires dressed and bundled neatly in panel
Hot leads to breakers along the sides, neutrals to neutral bar, grounds to ground bar. No crossovers.
On Every Device We Touch
✓
Screw terminals only — NO backstab connections
Backstabs loosen over time and cause arcing. Company policy: if we touched it, it gets properly torqued to a screw terminal.
✓
Tamper-resistant (TR) outlets on all replacements
NEC 406.12 requires TR in all dwelling units. No exceptions — TR outlets are $0.50 more, not a cost issue.
✓
Outlet tester check on every circuit before leaving
Walk the job with the tester. Every outlet we touched must show correct polarity and ground.
✓
Work area cleaned up — no debris, no drywall dust
We leave every home cleaner than we found it. This is how we get referrals.
Aluminum Wiring — The Potts Method
⚠️
Aluminum wiring in pre-1973 homes needs attention
Aluminum expands and contracts more than copper, causing connections to loosen over time. This causes arcing and fires. The Potts method is the AlumiConn remediation — NEVER use push-in connectors or CO/ALR devices alone on aluminum branch circuits.
1
Identify aluminum wiring
Check wire at panel — aluminum is silver/grey color and usually stamped "AL" on the insulation. Pre-1973 homes with 60A or 100A panels are most likely candidates.
2
Install GFCI breakers at panel
One GFCI breaker per branch circuit. This provides the code-required protection (NEC 406.4(D)(2)) and is the most reliable protection method for the wiring runs.
3
Install AlumiConn connectors at every device
Purple 3-port AlumiConn (King Innovation 20130). Insert aluminum wire into one port, copper pigtail into another, torque to 15 in-lb on BOTH. Connect copper pigtail to device terminal. Each device needs its own AlumiConn.
AlumiConn torque: 15 in-lb — verified with torque driver
Copper pigtail: #12 AWG minimum, 6" length
Device: Standard TR outlet on the copper pigtail
4
Apply required NEC stickers
"GFCI Protected / No Equipment Ground" sticker required at every outlet per NEC 406.4(D)(2). These come with Siemens QF115 breakers — order extras and keep them on the truck.
Job Standards
Pre-Departure Checklist
Run through this before you leave EVERY job. Every single item. No "I think I got it" — check it.
Electrical Work
✓
Tested every outlet with outlet tester — all show correct
✓
Pressed TEST and RESET on every GFCI — works correctly
✓
All breakers in ON position — none left tripped
✓
Panel directory updated and legible
✓
All boxes have cover plates installed — no open boxes
✓
All light fixtures and fans tested — working
✓
Smoke detectors tested — all chirping correctly
✓
No unused knockouts left open in panel
Customer Service
✓
Walked customer through all work performed — explained what we did and why
✓
Showed customer how to reset GFCI outlets and breakers
✓
Left all work areas clean — vacuumed, wiped, no debris
✓
Collected or confirmed payment before leaving
✓
Asked for a Google review — every job, every time
✓
Asked about other electrical needs while I have them — referrals too
✓
Completed job in ServiceTitan — photos uploaded
Ready to leave?
All items checked = job is done right. Missed items = go back and finish.
Safety Protocols
Safety First — Every Time
These rules are not suggestions. One mistake can kill you or the customer.
☠️
Electricity kills fast and silently
120V can cause ventricular fibrillation (heart stops) in milliseconds. You won't feel it coming. The only protection is verifying dead before you touch. Every time. No exceptions. Experienced electricians die because they assumed the power was off.
Lockout / Tagout (LOTO) Procedure
1
Identify ALL energy sources
Some circuits have multiple feeds. Service panels can have meter side and panel side. Identify every source of energy before starting.
2
Turn off at the source
Trip breaker or pull fuse. For service work, verify meter is pulled or main breaker is off. Don't just trust the switch — switches can fail.
3
Lock and tag
If others are in the building, physically lock the breaker in OFF position. Put a tag on it: "DO NOT TURN ON — Electrical work in progress — [Your name]".
4
Test — verify dead
Non-contact tester on all conductors. Then voltage tester between hot/neutral and hot/ground. Read 0 volts before touching anything. Test your tester on a known live source first to confirm it's working.
5
Test again after connecting equipment
Before tightening connections, verify dead one more time. Breakers can be accidentally reset while you're working. In a house with others, this happens.
PPE Requirements
| Task | Required PPE |
|---|---|
| All electrical work | Safety glasses, insulated tools, non-conductive footwear |
| Working near energized parts | Rubber insulating gloves (Class 00 min), face shield |
| Panel work (cover off) | Insulated gloves, safety glasses, no metal jewelry, arc flash PPE if required |
| Working hot (emergency only) | Class 2 rubber gloves, face shield, arc rated clothing — supervisor approval required |
| Ladder work | Fiberglass ladder only near electrical — NEVER aluminum ladder |
🚫
Never work on live 240V residential service
The service entrance conductors (from utility to meter to main breaker) are ALWAYS live until the utility pulls the meter. Even with the main breaker off, the wires above it are live. Call the utility for a meter pull before service entrance work. This is a fatal mistake zone.
Quick Reference
Key NEC Articles
The ones you'll reference most in residential work. Know these by heart.
| Article / Section | What it covers | The rule in plain English |
|---|---|---|
| NEC 210.8 | GFCI requirements | Where GFCI is required — bathrooms, garages, outdoors, crawl spaces, basements, near sinks |
| NEC 210.12 | AFCI requirements | Where AFCI is required — all 120V circuits in dwelling units (2020 NEC) |
| NEC 210.52 | Outlet spacing | No point on a wall more than 6 feet from an outlet. Kitchen counters: every 4 feet |
| NEC 240.4 | Overcurrent protection | Wire must be protected by a breaker that matches or is smaller than the wire's ampacity |
| NEC 250.52 | Grounding electrodes | Ground rods, water pipes, etc. — required grounding electrode system |
| NEC 300.4 | Physical protection | Wire within 1-1/4" of stud face needs a steel nail plate |
| NEC 300.5 | Underground burial depth | Direct burial: 24". In conduit: 18". Under slab or driveway: 24" |
| NEC 406.4 | Outlet replacement rules | Replacing an outlet in a GFCI location requires installing a GFCI outlet |
| NEC 406.12 | Tamper-resistant outlets | All 15A and 20A outlets in dwelling units must be tamper-resistant (TR) |
| NEC 408.4 | Circuit directory | Every circuit in a panel must be identified — must be legible and accurate |
| NEC 408.7 | Unused openings | No open knockouts in panels or boxes — every opening must be closed |
| NEC 680 | Pools, spas, hot tubs | GFCI required, specific clearances from water, disconnect within sight |
Core Procedure
Panel Work
Adding breakers, replacing panels, and organizing the panel correctly.
☠️
The panel is never fully de-energized until the meter is pulled
Even with the main breaker off, the service entrance conductors coming into the top of the panel are LIVE. The main lugs below those wires are LIVE. Never touch the service entrance conductors without a meter pull from the utility.
Adding a Breaker
1
Turn off main breaker — verify inner wires are dead
Main breaker off = branch circuit wires and bus bars dead. Service entrance conductors above main breaker are still live — stay away from them. Test bus bars with voltage tester before working.
2
Select the correct breaker — brand matters
Square D QO and Homeline, Siemens, Eaton BR, and Cutler-Hammer are NOT interchangeable. Using the wrong brand in a panel is a code violation (NEC 110.3) and a fire risk. Match the brand on the breaker to the brand on the panel.
3
Run the wire to the panel
Leave 6-8" of each conductor inside the panel. Strip back outer sheath 6" inside the panel box. Re-strip individual conductors 3/4" for breaker lug. Secure cable with a connector at the panel knockout.
4
Connect the breaker
Hot wire (black) to breaker lug — torque to spec. Neutral (white) to neutral bar. Ground (bare or green) to ground bar. Snap breaker into bus bar slot. Breaker should click firmly into place.
5
Label the circuit immediately
Use a label maker — never handwrite. NEC 408.4 requires accurate labeling. Update the directory card inside the panel cover.
Core Procedure
Running New Circuits
Planning and pulling new wire from panel to new locations.
Planning Before You Pull Wire
1
Determine circuit requirements first
What's the load? 15A for lighting/general (14/2). 20A for kitchen, bath, garage (12/2). Dedicated 30A for dryer (10/3). Always plan wire before pulling — you can't upsize after it's in the wall.
2
Plan your route — shortest path wins
Drill through top plates to run in walls. Run through attic or basement when possible. Avoid drilling through structural members — never cut more than 1/3 of a stud's depth. Keep wires at least 1-1/4" from stud face or install nail plates.
3
Measure twice, cut once
Add 20% to your estimated wire run for stapling curves and box connections. A 30-foot run needs 36+ feet of wire. Running out mid-pull = no splices allowed inside walls (NEC 300.15).
4
Secure wire every 4-1/2 feet and within 12" of boxes
NEC 334.30: NM cable must be secured within 12" of every box and every 4-1/2 feet along the run. Use wire staples — not regular staples or zip ties through wire.
Troubleshooting
Flickering / Dimming Lights
Lights flickering or dimming can indicate a serious problem. Don't dismiss this as a "bad bulb."
💡Single light flickers occasionally
1
Loose bulb — tighten in socket first
2
Bad bulb — replace and test
3
Loose wire at fixture or switch — check connections
4
Wrong dimmer for LED bulbs — replace with LED-compatible dimmer
⚡Whole house dims when appliance starts
1
Normal for large motors (A/C compressor) — brief startup surge
2
Undersized service — 100A service struggling under load, consider upgrade
3
Loose main breaker or service connection — check main breaker lug torque
4
Loose utility connection — call utility if the problem persists
🔄Multiple lights on circuit flicker together
1
Loose neutral on that circuit — check neutral at panel and at first box
2
Overloaded circuit — add up the load, may need dedicated circuit
3
Loose connection in junction box on the circuit
🚨Random flickering, house-wide
1
Loose main neutral — DANGEROUS. Check main neutral lug. Can cause 240V on 120V circuits.
2
Utility-side problem — call the utility to check their connections at weather head
3
Loose connection at service entrance — needs service work, call utility for meter pull
🔥
Loose main neutral is an emergency
A loose or broken main neutral can cause voltage to redistribute unevenly across the two legs. Lights may get too bright on one leg while too dim on the other. This can destroy appliances and cause fires. If you suspect a loose main neutral, shut off the main breaker and call the utility immediately.
Troubleshooting
Burning Smell / Sparks
This is always serious until proven otherwise. Move fast and be systematic.
🔥
Burning electrical smell = possible fire in walls
Electrical fires can smolder inside walls for hours before becoming visible. If a customer reports a persistent burning smell, treat it as a fire hazard until proven otherwise. If you see discoloration, melting, or scorching on outlets or panels — there is active arcing happening. Shut off the breaker immediately.
1
Locate the source first — follow the smell
Walk the house. The smell is stronger near the source. Check panel, any recently added devices, outlets that feel warm to the touch, and any area near a recent electrical work.
2
Check the panel for hot breakers or melting
A hot breaker means it's carrying more load than rated — overloaded circuit or bad breaker. Melted insulation or scorching inside the panel = shut everything off and start troubleshooting from the panel outward.
3
Check every outlet — feel for heat through the cover plate
An outlet or device that's warm to the touch (not just room temperature) has a problem. Open it — look for melted insulation, burnt smell concentrated there, or discolored wires.
4
If you find the problem — fix it immediately or shut it down
Don't leave a burning-smell job "to schedule later." Either fix it now or turn off the affected breaker and document it for the customer. A burning smell that you note and leave = liability.
Core Procedure
Light Fixtures & Ceiling Fans
Replacing fixtures and installing ceiling fans the right way.
Replacing a Light Fixture
1
Verify the box is rated for the fixture weight
Standard old-work plastic boxes: max 35 lbs. Fan-rated boxes: 70 lbs. A ceiling fan on a regular light box = fire hazard and safety violation. Check before hanging anything.
2
Turn off breaker — verify dead at the box
Always test at the box, not just at the switch. Some fixtures have multiple feeds or unswitched hot wires in the box.
3
Connect wires — match colors
Black to black (hot), white to white (neutral), bare to bare (ground). If fixture has wire leads, connect with wire nuts. Use push-in connectors or wire nuts — not backstabs.
4
Mount canopy — fold wires in
Don't jam wires. Fold them accordion-style so nothing is pinched. Tighten mounting screws — fixture should not wobble. Check that canopy sits flush against ceiling.
Installing a Ceiling Fan
⚠️
You MUST use a fan-rated box
Ceiling fans create dynamic load — they wobble and vibrate. A regular light box can work itself loose and drop the fan on someone. Fan-rated boxes are required (NEC 314.27(C)). Westinghouse 0101800 is the standard remodel brace box — it adjusts between joists with no attic access.
1
Install fan-rated brace box if there isn't one
Remove old box. Insert Westinghouse 0101800 (or equiv) through hole. Expand to contact both joists. Tighten until firmly locked — you should not be able to rotate it by hand.
2
14/3 wire for separate fan and light control
Black = fan, red = light, white = neutral, bare = ground. If only 14/2 wire exists, you can still use a dual-function fan/light switch (Lutron MA-LFQM) — it sends fan speed and dimming on two legs of the black wire.
3
Hang and balance
Hang canopy, tighten all screws. Install blades. Turn on and check for wobble. If wobbling: use a balancing kit (usually included) — add small weights to blade tips until wobble stops.
Core Procedure
Service Upgrades
100A to 200A upgrades. The Potts way, start to finish.
☠️
Always pull permit and get meter pulled by utility
Service upgrades require a permit in almost every jurisdiction. The utility must pull the meter before you touch service entrance conductors. Never work on live service entrance wires — this is fatal work zone.
Service Upgrade Checklist — St. Louis Area
✓
Permit pulled with local municipality before starting
✓
Utility (Ameren) notified — meter pull scheduled
✓
Lever bypass meter installed (Ameren St. Louis requirement)
✓
200A main panel with sufficient breaker spaces for home
✓
Siemens FS140 surge protector installed — Potts standard
✓
1900 box + GFCI TR outlet + raised cover + offset nipple at panel
✓
New ground rod(s) driven and bonded per NEC 250.52
✓
Water pipe bond installed per NEC 250.104
✓
New weatherhead and drip loop installed if mast replaced
✓
All circuits transferred, labeled, and tested
✓
Inspection scheduled and passed before restoring service